Once you get the regulator installed and all the hoses connected, you should loosen the pressure adjustment fully by turning it CCW. The fuel pressure regulator adjustment screw should be backed off before pressurizing so the pressure can be brought up to the target amount. Over pressure will instantly destroy the 0-30 psi gauge. Pressure setting differs depending upon the make and model car but if that is unknown 11.psi is a reasonable starting point. Components are tested up to 25psi- do not exceed that limit without contacting Patton Machine or Affordable Fuel Injection.
An excellent video showing the location and installation of various engine bay components.
NOTE: Since posting these videos we’ve determined that the regulator must be mounted with the little rubber plug at the top to allow for expansion and contraction of the liquid with temperature. The rubber plug needs to be pierced with a pin making a tiny vent hole
Early TR6, TR250, etc. MAP port– On these early engines you may need to add a small port so that the MAP sensor can be isolated from any other intake vacuum source. A small 1/8” NPT pipe thread hose barb can be added to one of the intake runners by drilling and tapping. Contact me if you have questions.
Ignition Module location- The ignition module is mounted on an aluminum heat sink designed to mount behind the ignition coil with the coil bracket mounting bolts. It is best to have the module mounted to the block rather than a body part where the ground connection may not be quite as good.
PCV valves and crankcase vents hoses– should not be plumbed directly into a TBI intake as they will have the same effect as a vacuum leak causing a high idle and false load readings to the MAP sensor.
Goodpart’s oil/vapor separator– If you have one of these separators, like the above PCV valves, they should not be plumbed directly into a TBI intake manifold but rather to the air cleaner or the 5/16” side ports on ZS carbs.